Brick Lane

Sunday's weather is muggy and overcast, and the idea of staying inside any of London's many museums without a/c doesn't appeal. London is known for its Sunday street markets, so, back in the East End in the morning, around the corner from Spitalfields and Petticoat Lane is the mother of all markets: Brick Lane. The street is now all trendy boutiques, and vendors have taken over various surrounding buildings, like old breweries and office buildings, but most of the action is literally, in the street. But there's a lot of interesting looking graffiti, and |I think I recognized a few Banksy's including one that was half papered over. It's fascinating to watch the things being carried out of the market. I saw someone carrying out a 1990s-era computer monitor, someone carrying a potted trumpet flower in full bloom, someone with a bunch of peacock feathers, and two guys drinking the water out of green coconuts, which a guy with a machete had just hacked open a few minutes earlier. There was even a shifty character in handcuffs, being "carried" out by two Bobbies.

The selection of stuff for sale is remarkable: 2nd hand furniture, pointed toe Indian slippers in a rainbow of colors, stylish 1950's men's hats, felted hair ornaments, wrestler masks. Someone was selling beaten up mountain bikes, and bike seats that, quite frankly, I'd have put in the trash by now. There were lots of girls sitting on the sidewalk, selling clothes out of large rolling suitcases. The old East End was represented by a group of elderly Pearly Kings and Queens rattling charity cans at the passing crowd. And the food stalls were great: Thai, Indian, Japanese, Chinese, Spanish, Latin American, West Indian, French, everyone was frying or sizzling something, or piling great stacks of things up in enticing displays.

Today is also the first day for the farmer's market, in, appropriately, Bacon Street. I spent some time at the Brockleby's stand, which advertised itself as "food with provenance." I was first attracted by their "Beaver Pie." No, not actually made of beaver meat, but I had to check. This farm shop from Leicester specializes in an amazing range of traditional British pies, including a wonderful Melton Mowbray Pork Pie. I was tempted to buy one and save for Tuesday's bus ride to France, but it was hot, and I wasn't heading back to Epsom for hours. The farmers were also selling asparagus, strawberries, apples and cider, goat cheeses, game birds, eggs, breads, cakes, gourmet bacon, vegetables of all types

The markets wind down about 2PM. For lunch I had organic pork sausages on an artisan roll, smothered with fried onions for £3.50. The smell was incredible and it tasted great.

After the market, I went to Liverpool Street Tube, and headed north.