Scenery on approach to Pemberton

I can tell I'm getting close to Whistler. Reminds me both of Montana and the Canadian Rockies near Banff. Weather is hot, 90s.

Quite a lot of this on Hwy 99 to Whistler

After a lengthy wait, the start of downhill grades up to 15% a bit more exciting than necessary.

Rhodie with a charmed life

A Rhode Island Red who understands winery lunch options.

Fort Berens winery in Lillooet

The region is engulfed in smoke from forest fires, and it's a little strange to be playing tourist in these conditions, where road closures are happening, so I'm taking my time getting to Whistler. It's still quite lovely, especially with an excellent dry Reisling from an unfamiliar winery.

Another William!

I met Steve, a history teacher from Manchester, in the Kamloops RV park where I stayed Sunday night. The park is notable because it's the first time in a 38-day summer road trip where I got to wear shorts and camp in upper 80s degree weather. It's also notable because Steve's doing a trip from Calgary to Vancouver by Brompton. I never replaced Wm the Conqueror after it was stolen in Paris in 2013. But I remember my little folding bike with much affection. Steve's using a Dutch trailer with his rig. It was great chatting with another Bromptoneer. I passed him on Hwy 5 out of Kamloops earlier this morning. While I'm not big on riding on Hwy shoulders, it's what you have to do out here.

Break at Lone Butte, BC

The highway to Cache Creek , my turn off to Vancouver, is closed at 100 Mile House, so I am doing the detour to Kamloops via another road. It's smoky and the smell of ash hangs thick in the air. It's from the wild fires, and all the lodge and campground owners are scrambling to re start after all the Williams Lake locals have finally been allowed to go home. Now 70 Mile House is evacuated. So, I followed some 3 foot high road signs advertising cappuccino. It's true, and made by Italians too.

Typical Historical Building off Hwy 97

A remnant of central BC's agricultural past.

Alessandro di Bertolini touring cyclist

I heard Alessandro come late into my Prince George campground on Sat night. On Sunday, as he dried out his gear, he told me he started in Dan Francisco and is hoping to reach Fairbanks in August with time to ride the Dalton Highway to Prudhoe Bay. He comes from the Dolomites in Italy. These alps are still on my September travel list for 2017, but may not happen depending on what teaching gigs I can get in the next few weeks at home. Still, what a pleasant surprise. The Dalton may be a stretch due to how quickly winter returns to Alaska, but this cyclist made it through Death Valley in June! I think he can do anything, especially as he eats Nutella, meat, for breakfast!

Heading out from Stewart at 8:30a on a rainy Saturday

Hyder, AK

Mouldering back into the greenery, but a grand one still.

Inside the Glacier Inn

It's wallpapered with old Canadian and American dollar bills, hunting trophies, life preservers from boats that came up the Canal, and signed miner's helmets. It's dark and scruffy, with a "Danger Cyanide" sign hanging over the kitchen hatch. It also serves decent fresh food.

Hyder' Glacier Inn since 1956

Like so much in Alaska, outside appearances can deceive.

The friendliest ghost town in America

Hyder, AK is 4km from Stewart, BC across the Portland Canal, a fiord that empties into the Inside Passage.

Salmon River

The melt water from the Salmon Glacier creates this river. There's a glacial blue kettle pond upstream.

Toe of Salmon Glacier, 17.2 miles from Stewart

Mine refuse

On the road to Salmon Glacier, from Hyder, AK.

Worth a try

At the Ripley Creek Inn, Stewart, BC

Another glacier enroute to Stewart

Remnant glaciers on Hwy 37a to Stewart, BC

Glaciers have been here too.

From the Alcan Junction to Good Hope Lake, it's rejuvenating forest. After here the road becomes a spectacular mountain road through the Cassier Mountains.

Cassier Highway

A ribbon of blacktop with many roller coasters dips to keep you paying attention. Today I turned off the AlCan and went as far as Dease Lake. Places to buy gas are limited.

South bound on the Cassier Highway

The burn dates from 2012.

Scenic for sure

The train goes around 2 side canyons leading to glaciers. Hikers can arrange flag stops and do an overnight up a valley.

On the return journey

Trail of 1898

The stampeders used an existing Tlingit trading route over White Pass before the railroad was built. This is a piece near Summit Lake, and it could easily date from the mid-1700s.

Pennington

Ghost town buildings on Lake Bennett used once for ice harvesting.

OMG what was I thinking?

Inside the Bennett Train Station.

Klondike era building in Bennett

One of the few still standing in this ghost town. The chicken wire deters bears.

Historic church in Bennett

There haven't been any Presbyterian congregation (or anyone else) in Bennett since 1890, so this extraordinary wooden church is unused.

From the train

A feat of engineering in its day

This wooden trestle and iron girder bridge was decommissioned in the 1960s.

Tunnel and trestle

The 8:30 departure

Engine of the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad

For $289 I did a day long trip, Skagway to Carcross via Bennett Lake and return. The train+coach back trip costs $229. I like trains and I don't like organized bus trips much, so it was worth it.

Maybe not so successful: gah!

Furry Eskimo slippers wreathing a Moore family photo: unique for sure. I'm not sure what the matching embroidered things at the bottom are, but they look like feminine gaiters. Who knows what the Victorian ladies of the Klondike were wearing under their long skirts...

It coordinates with the wallpaper

Something notable in the victorian era Bernard Moore House

I'd guess that this pressed tin "pie plate" covers a hole in the wall that once accommodated a wood stove chimney. In the spirit of "if you can't disguise it, make it a feature" someone painted a color coordinated winter scene, and the whole thing is quite lovely.

Raven in Skagway

I wonder if it's looking at its reflection. Probably not. These birds are so smart it's probably just meditating.

Twitter storm, anyone ?

Chilcoot Pass

From "The Gold Rush" (1925)

The lone prospector

Big Jim's Lucky Strike

I've found it! a mountain of gold!!

Still Life with Fireweed

Here in Skagway summer isn't yet over, according to the blossom fade on the fireweed stalks. Up in Fairbanks, the stalks are 2/3 spent.

Down by the RR tracks

Some local transportation options melting back into the forest in Skagway.

In the window of the joint Park service visitors center

So, where's the other ton - 50# of gear they were required to bring?

The Artic Brotherhood Hall in Skagway

The AB building's facade of driftwood. A unique application of Alaskan woodworking. It might also refer to nearby AB Mountain, where melting snow apparently spells out the letters at some point in the spring.

The new gold rush

Monday in Skagway. Tomorrow there will be 4 cruise ships in port.

A stampeder who never made it

In 1898, Ballard was a separate town from Seattle. This man was one of perhaps 70 gold seekers who died in the Palm Sunday Avalanche during the stampede to the Yukon.

Slide cemetery in Dyea

Start of the Chilcoot Trail

After setting up camp in Dyea I walked over to look at the trailhead for the signature trail of Klondike history, starting in Alaska and ending in the Yukon.