Hawkes Bay NZ Water trail

Monday, June 24, 2013

Beehives found while lost

Very nice. By now it was after 12, had started to rain, and I had to bash through 2 windfall tangles of trunks and branches across the trail before I gave up and backtracked.
I followed something called the Ebersteinburgerweg, (not on map) and popped out of the woods on Hilsbrunnenstrasse at the wrong end of Ebersteinburg, which I'd planned to reach on the Panoramaweg. This was the part of town where the first bus stop i found had a faded notice from 2011 still attached saying it no longer was a working bus stop. I walked up to a worn hotel/spa which was closed on Mondays, and sat on one of the plastic deck chairs on its terrace, being stared at by some busybody in the apartment next door.
I figured out by the proximity of the other attraction here, the old ruin Eberstein, that I'd come down an unnamed unmarked footpath.
So I went into the only thing open, a small grocery store, which from the outside looked to be the sort of shop where the only thing for sale would be s few cobwebs. Surprise, well stocked and a pleasant woman who had all her own teeth smiling at the counter, so I bought a Ritter bar and 500g of ridiculously perfect organic strawberries, which I ate before reaching the real bus stop. The heavens then opened, so I ate the chocolate bar on a park bench in the shelter of a big oak tree, next to a C18th memorial stone roadside crucifix. The 415 bus to Gaggenau went by. I decided to wait out the rain and walk 3km along the main road into Baden Baden.
At the junction, however, I spotted the Hotel Wolfsschlucht, which was on my Panoramaweg map. Not only that they were still serving lunch. So I had Wiener schnitzel, pommes frites and salad. This hotel, decorated with orchids and ceramic clowns on the deep farmhouse windowsills and at least one working cuckoo clock in room in the back somewhere is in the "bett und bike" network of cyclist friendly lodging and specializes in something called "feine badische Kuche" I thought it was pretty good, even with the thinly sliced disks of turnip in the salad, something I'd taken to be jicama yesterday in Baden Baden. No matter. It's raining off and on, I had a glass of pils and I've polished off 2 crumbed pork cutlets, and i've dried out a bit and now I'm heading back to my appointment at the Thermen, where I plan to indulge in a massage, then fall asleep in the sauna. Then bus back to the youth hostel sometime before they lock the outer door.

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